how to make, and print with, reusable silk screens... cheaply!
This Instructable will show you how to make your own reusable screen for printing on fabric or paper.
The screen you will make will produce a high quality image which will save you time and money.
Unlike most of the screen screening instructions I \'ve found, this method allows you to screen without messy photo emulsion pasting.
One day, I will buy a high-end screen station machine with paste, but today, I am broke. . .
Cricut cutting machines are great for these projects, but you can easily make your own designs without it.
If you want to start, just click on the steps!
The first step is to assemble the tools and items you need.
There may be most of what you need around the house.
If not, go to Michael\'s craft shop or Joe-
The fabric of Ann may be neat.
Here\'s what you need to make your screen :-
As many frames as the number of screens you make. (
I recommend a few because you need moreColor design. )
I used the painter\'s canvas on pre-
Michael\'s wooden frame.
You can use the old frame or make it yourself.
The overall plan is to have a 1 \"or thicker wooden frame that is solid and absolutely flat on at least one surface.
It has to be flat so you can get the best seal according to your project. -
A sharp tool knife. -
A light nail gun. -
Sharp scissors. -Small hammer. -
Blue paint household tape, the wider the better. -
Fine mesh material like shown.
I think it\'s a nylon overhanging cloth.
Any solid net is fine.
The silk is obviously the original, so it is named.
I bought mine from Jo.
A fabric of about $6 per yard. (
It was a 50% discount from $12)
The fabric is in the home decoration section of a large roll.
There should be quite a few screens in size 1. (
I have a lot left after 2. )
Then you need :-
Include wire mesh material of any ink or paint you would like to use, rubber (
You can improvise with many different household items. )
, And clothing or paper to be printed.
In this note, my wife and I are doing \"onesies\" for our near future\"to-be newborn.
Start getting the screen to grab your tool knife and canvas frame.
If you already have something like a photo frame, just remove the glass or anything inside.
Use a tool knife to cut the edge of the canvas and release it from the frame.
The rest of the pieces and the tearing of any staple that can work freely.
If the DingTalk is intact, just tap them with a hammer to make sure they don\'t have any obstacles later.
After you\'re done, you should have something like a photo.
* Career tip: Don\'t throw away the canvas!
Use it on your workbench later to absorb ink spills!
Next, we need to cut a piece of screen material and stretch on the frame.
You need to make sure it\'s a few inches larger than the frame so you have some work space.
Nothing is more frustrating than finishing half, just realizing that the screen is too small.
Believe me, you have to start over if this happens!
The best way to make sure this doesn\'t happen is to start in a corner before cutting the screen.
Nail in that corner and cut the material out a few inches through the frame.
Like this photo. . .
Continue to bind around the frame.
I like to put 2 or 3 Staples on each side.
When I left, I stretched very tight.
Make sure you pull the fabric tight when you bind it!
Gradually add more staples between what you have already done.
When you\'re done, you should have a staple every inch, the screen should be very tight and flat on the flat side of the frame.
Once the staples are completed and you are satisfied with the tightness of the screen, gently tap all the staples flush with a hammer.
Next, use your tool knife to carefully cut excess screen material from the frame.
Cut at least a few centimeters from the DingTalk and walk slowly!
If you cut the fabric off the staple, if not impossible, it\'s hard to get that part of the screen to tighten again!
Now, use the tape of your Painter (
Or you want something more permanent. )
Cover the edge.
This helps prevent the screen from wearing and/or punching in the staple while working.
In this step, you will create a design for the silk screen on your clothing or paper.
This is where Cricut machines come in handy, but you\'ll see that you can draw any design you want.
Note: This is also where you start to paste with expensive and chaotic photo lotions.
Basically, while these things are very versatile, they will shorten the life of the screen if they are not completely useless.
The idea here is that I can use these screens multiple times and I don\'t have to use photo lotion, defacing or anything else anymore.
In this example, I use the vinyl adhesive sheet in Cricut as a template cut.
Cheaper shelf padding can also be used to contact paper.
Since it only sticks to one side, I have to use the \"flip\" setting on cricket to cut it in reverse.
I then stick the design to the flat side of the frame and the screen will touch the side of the project.
I then blocked the rest of the screen area with the painter\'s tape.
Just in case you haven\'t guessed.
Paint or ink can only pass through areas without blockage.
If you are careful with ink and scraping, you don\'t have to block the whole screen like I do.
Well, I\'m a fool, though. . .
The second photo shows the side you are going to work on;
As you can see, the image is now reading in the right direction.
Now you are ready for screen printing!
Using my remaining canvas, the rough side facing up, I made a cushion for my clothes while printing.
When screening cloth, consider using a piece of cardboard inside the cloth so that paint and ink do not penetrate.
Lay the clothes in the right way so it will be flat and there is no wrinkles in the project area.
Now, place the screen in the desired position at the top of the garment.
Apply ink or paint in the desired color (s)
Right on the screen above the image area.
Note: You can use multiple colors at a time, but after running multiple times on the same screen, it gets messy.
I recommend using a separate screen for multiple colors.
In this design I use black first and will use a separate screen with only the Red Lady\'s body on the screen.
Slowly, firmly, drag the paint on the image with your scraper, while keeping the screen in place with your other hand.
Note: You can use many different objects as a scraper, just make sure it doesn\'t get stuck or rip your screen, and it\'s strong enough to withstand pressure.
To ensure the correct coverage, you can scrape the image multiple times.
Adjust the blade angle to apply more paint/ink. Nice job!
Carefully lift the screen from one side and let the clothes fall off the screen. Check it out!
Your first printed dress!
Once you finish the last dress with your screen, remove all the tape and design before the ink dries, and gently clean the screen thoroughly with warm water.
If you do not allow ink to dry on the screen, you should be able to use the screen multiple times.
Of course there will be some discoloration, but the pores of the screen should still be opened in order to transfer the paint.
For color overlays and layers, let the image dry and warm (
According to the manufacturer\'s instructions for your ink. )
Ink before applying the next color screen.
Make all the items for a specific screen first.
The ink is solidified by drying and heating.
Then, as in these examples, ink the tem again with the next color layer. (
My camera can\'t capture the color very well! Grrrrr. . . . . )
The screen you will make will produce a high quality image which will save you time and money.
Unlike most of the screen screening instructions I \'ve found, this method allows you to screen without messy photo emulsion pasting.
One day, I will buy a high-end screen station machine with paste, but today, I am broke. . .
Cricut cutting machines are great for these projects, but you can easily make your own designs without it.
If you want to start, just click on the steps!
The first step is to assemble the tools and items you need.
There may be most of what you need around the house.
If not, go to Michael\'s craft shop or Joe-
The fabric of Ann may be neat.
Here\'s what you need to make your screen :-
As many frames as the number of screens you make. (
I recommend a few because you need moreColor design. )
I used the painter\'s canvas on pre-
Michael\'s wooden frame.
You can use the old frame or make it yourself.
The overall plan is to have a 1 \"or thicker wooden frame that is solid and absolutely flat on at least one surface.
It has to be flat so you can get the best seal according to your project. -
A sharp tool knife. -
A light nail gun. -
Sharp scissors. -Small hammer. -
Blue paint household tape, the wider the better. -
Fine mesh material like shown.
I think it\'s a nylon overhanging cloth.
Any solid net is fine.
The silk is obviously the original, so it is named.
I bought mine from Jo.
A fabric of about $6 per yard. (
It was a 50% discount from $12)
The fabric is in the home decoration section of a large roll.
There should be quite a few screens in size 1. (
I have a lot left after 2. )
Then you need :-
Include wire mesh material of any ink or paint you would like to use, rubber (
You can improvise with many different household items. )
, And clothing or paper to be printed.
In this note, my wife and I are doing \"onesies\" for our near future\"to-be newborn.
Start getting the screen to grab your tool knife and canvas frame.
If you already have something like a photo frame, just remove the glass or anything inside.
Use a tool knife to cut the edge of the canvas and release it from the frame.
The rest of the pieces and the tearing of any staple that can work freely.
If the DingTalk is intact, just tap them with a hammer to make sure they don\'t have any obstacles later.
After you\'re done, you should have something like a photo.
* Career tip: Don\'t throw away the canvas!
Use it on your workbench later to absorb ink spills!
Next, we need to cut a piece of screen material and stretch on the frame.
You need to make sure it\'s a few inches larger than the frame so you have some work space.
Nothing is more frustrating than finishing half, just realizing that the screen is too small.
Believe me, you have to start over if this happens!
The best way to make sure this doesn\'t happen is to start in a corner before cutting the screen.
Nail in that corner and cut the material out a few inches through the frame.
Like this photo. . .
Continue to bind around the frame.
I like to put 2 or 3 Staples on each side.
When I left, I stretched very tight.
Make sure you pull the fabric tight when you bind it!
Gradually add more staples between what you have already done.
When you\'re done, you should have a staple every inch, the screen should be very tight and flat on the flat side of the frame.
Once the staples are completed and you are satisfied with the tightness of the screen, gently tap all the staples flush with a hammer.
Next, use your tool knife to carefully cut excess screen material from the frame.
Cut at least a few centimeters from the DingTalk and walk slowly!
If you cut the fabric off the staple, if not impossible, it\'s hard to get that part of the screen to tighten again!
Now, use the tape of your Painter (
Or you want something more permanent. )
Cover the edge.
This helps prevent the screen from wearing and/or punching in the staple while working.
In this step, you will create a design for the silk screen on your clothing or paper.
This is where Cricut machines come in handy, but you\'ll see that you can draw any design you want.
Note: This is also where you start to paste with expensive and chaotic photo lotions.
Basically, while these things are very versatile, they will shorten the life of the screen if they are not completely useless.
The idea here is that I can use these screens multiple times and I don\'t have to use photo lotion, defacing or anything else anymore.
In this example, I use the vinyl adhesive sheet in Cricut as a template cut.
Cheaper shelf padding can also be used to contact paper.
Since it only sticks to one side, I have to use the \"flip\" setting on cricket to cut it in reverse.
I then stick the design to the flat side of the frame and the screen will touch the side of the project.
I then blocked the rest of the screen area with the painter\'s tape.
Just in case you haven\'t guessed.
Paint or ink can only pass through areas without blockage.
If you are careful with ink and scraping, you don\'t have to block the whole screen like I do.
Well, I\'m a fool, though. . .
The second photo shows the side you are going to work on;
As you can see, the image is now reading in the right direction.
Now you are ready for screen printing!
Using my remaining canvas, the rough side facing up, I made a cushion for my clothes while printing.
When screening cloth, consider using a piece of cardboard inside the cloth so that paint and ink do not penetrate.
Lay the clothes in the right way so it will be flat and there is no wrinkles in the project area.
Now, place the screen in the desired position at the top of the garment.
Apply ink or paint in the desired color (s)
Right on the screen above the image area.
Note: You can use multiple colors at a time, but after running multiple times on the same screen, it gets messy.
I recommend using a separate screen for multiple colors.
In this design I use black first and will use a separate screen with only the Red Lady\'s body on the screen.
Slowly, firmly, drag the paint on the image with your scraper, while keeping the screen in place with your other hand.
Note: You can use many different objects as a scraper, just make sure it doesn\'t get stuck or rip your screen, and it\'s strong enough to withstand pressure.
To ensure the correct coverage, you can scrape the image multiple times.
Adjust the blade angle to apply more paint/ink. Nice job!
Carefully lift the screen from one side and let the clothes fall off the screen. Check it out!
Your first printed dress!
Once you finish the last dress with your screen, remove all the tape and design before the ink dries, and gently clean the screen thoroughly with warm water.
If you do not allow ink to dry on the screen, you should be able to use the screen multiple times.
Of course there will be some discoloration, but the pores of the screen should still be opened in order to transfer the paint.
For color overlays and layers, let the image dry and warm (
According to the manufacturer\'s instructions for your ink. )
Ink before applying the next color screen.
Make all the items for a specific screen first.
The ink is solidified by drying and heating.
Then, as in these examples, ink the tem again with the next color layer. (
My camera can\'t capture the color very well! Grrrrr. . . . . )
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